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椀物・椎茸の水煮
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真鯛と蛸の刺し身
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「ブリ大根」
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ししゃもの巻きずし
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香箱蟹のかにまんじゅう
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茄子そうめん
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白甘鯛の焼き物
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牛肉とセリの炊き合わせ
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ごはん
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香の物
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山椒ちりめん、いくら、穴子
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丼物
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ごはんのおかず(追加)
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今回の休暇のメインに据えて、2ヶ月近く前から予約を入れておいたお店。
和食をちょっと探究したいなと考え始めた時に、このお店は候補としてかなり上位にあった。2022年4月開店の新店ということで、〈東京最高のレストラン〉の座談会に採り上げられていて、日本が誇る食いしん坊(?)たちがこのお店のことを縦横無尽に語り尽くしているのを見て、面白そうな店だなぁ、と興味を持ったのがきっかけ。
土曜の20:30から、という遅いスタートながら、日本酒をお任せにていただきつつ、名刺代わりに出された1品目の、椎茸をほぼ水で煮て旨みを引き出しただけの〈水煮〉でキレイにかまされる。ボラの白子と卵巣を柚子餡でいただく2品目、蛸塩と鯛のダシなどから作った醤油、タレを使っていただく鯛と蛸の刺し身と続くうちに引き込まれ、5品目に出て来た”ブリ大根”こと、皮目を細かく切って炙り、脂を出して、おろした大根おろしでいただく脂たっぷりのブリを頂いて完全にノックアウト。
あとはもう純粋に楽しんでいたが、酢飯の上にシシャモの骨せんべいを乗せ、その上に揚げた雌雄のシシャモを組み合わせて乗せ、生地で巻いていただく7品目、香箱蟹で作った蟹まんじゅう、白甘鯛の焼き物、など、この日感銘を受けたものは数え切れず。肉・魚のメインが出て来る直前の10品目にして出された”茄子素麺”は、茄子の濃厚な旨味に絡む素麺にも驚いたが、料理の説明の際に、ここで初めてカツオダシを使いました、と言われてはっとする。そこまでの「旨いダシ感」は一体なんだったんだろう、と驚き、惚けているうちにメインの2品、ごはんもので畳みかけられて終わる。
控えめに言って凄い店。日本酒3合(お店にお任せ)を頂いて、サービス料込で50,000円ジャストくらい。お値段はゴツイものの、このお店は定期的に通いたいと思う魅力に満ちている。
勘定の関係で、最後に少し料理長の中村さんとお話ができたが、いわく、カツオダシや昆布ダシは美味しいものだが、それに引っ張られてしまい素材の味を感じにくくなる瞬間がある、日本の各地の「水」に可能性を感じており、京都と金沢から取り寄せたものを使っている、などなど。色んな拘りをうかがうことができた。
時々、「素材を活かす」という名の元に、ろくに仕事をせずに素材そのままみたいな料理を出す店もあるけれど、この店では到るところに細かい仕事が施されている。「素材を活かす料理」って、本当は、こういうことなんだろうな。色んな細工、業を施して、素材の持っている本来の実力を引き出す、という意味での「活かす」。ここに行くという人生の楽しみが増えた、ということで。