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スズキ。この前に枝豆があった。
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えび、梅肉、長芋、おくら、いりこ酒
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汲み上げ湯葉にウニ
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ホタテ
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ホタテのヒモの貝殻焼き
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メカジキハラスのタタキ
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メカジキの焼き物
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お酒の最後に金の花。粋だね。
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コダイ
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イカ
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マグロ赤身
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中トロ
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大トロ
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コハダ
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ミル貝
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アジ
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クルマエビ
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金目鯛
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ウニ
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シマアジ
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はまぐり
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イサキ
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穴子
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追加のイサキ
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玉子焼き
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昨年からこっち、鮨屋を幾つか回ってみた結果、人によって色んな考え方はあるだろうけど、鮨については、私はあまり手を拡げなくてもいいかなと思った。
別に新規開拓をしないというわけではない。機会があれば、と見ている店はいくつもある。
しかし、鮨屋は常連を大事にする傾向がある。他の業態よりもその傾向が特に際立つ。新しい客に対する職人の緊張感は、それはそれで面白さの一部だが、顔見知りになって気心知れたお客さんと相対するほうが余裕があり、それゆえのアソビもあり、店によっては好みを踏まえて気を利かしてくれることもある。
そのほうが、こっちも楽だなと思うようになった。
そんな中、ここ〈みずかみ〉さんは、贔屓にしたい、通いたいと思う店の一つ。麹町に店を構えるというのもシブい。通いたいもう一つは神保町の〈はる駒〉さん。二つのお店は全く違う方向を向いている感じがするけれど、ともに私の感性にぴたっと嵌まるものがある。この二つの店があれば、私の鮨に対する欲求は99%満たされる気がしている。
昨年夏、ツマミから握りに到るまで、ぐうの音も出ないほどに圧倒された。完成度の高いツマミの数々と、気品と艶が薫る粋な鮨。重心が高く軽やかで、鮨ネタにきらめく艶と横を通り過ぎた美女の残り香のような気品。あれをもう一度味わいたい、と、1ヶ月ちょっと前に予約して行った。
今回も8品のツマミ、15貫+追加の巻物で圧倒的充実感のもとに2時間を過ごさせていただいた。このご時世で値段も上がったが、お酒も2合飲んでこの内容で諭吉先生4枚半。安いとは言わないが、クオリティなどを踏まえれば首肯できる範囲。
ツマミは冒頭から春らしく、それも桜散り、新芽が芽吹く今のこの時期を断面として切り取った感じ。春を感じる食材でこれでもかと春を感じ、堪能させてくれる。トドメに出て来るカジキの焼き物の絶妙な火加減。中身はフレンチ流に言えばミキュイ。魚を知り尽くす鮨屋の職人ならではの技が堪能できる。
握りも、マグロなどの花形のネタもさることながら、細工を施して出すアジやイワシ、コハダなどの青物、煮蛤などの伝統的な品、どれも素晴らしい仕上がり。起伏もありつつ、最初から最後まで寸分の隙もない展開で魅せてくれた。そんな中のこの日のトップ3は、思わず写真に納める前に掴んで食べてしまったトロ、見た目からして美しかったアジ、細工を利かせたイワシか。
値段が値段なので足繁く通うことはできないまでも、まずは残る秋と冬を制覇するところからかな。