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草庵｡ひっそりと侘びた佇まい｡
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最初のつまみ｡真ん中の酒盗は鮪の酒盗｡鰹だと匂いがキツイとのご主人のお考えだそう｡
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サッと火を入れたホタルイカ｡ほんのりバターの香り｡
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初鰹｡自身今年初｡スキッとした鰹に茗荷｡
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鰯｡こんがり焼き目が香ばしく、染めおろしが脂を程よく中和してウマい｡
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伊佐木から握りスタート｡ 煮切りに風味｡
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ほうぼう｡旨み強い白身｡
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石鯛｡身が少しネットリ｡
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真鯛
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平目 ポン酢おろし
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赤貝
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ヒモ
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青柳 ヒモも柱もついた開き｡贅沢｡
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太刀魚 軽く炙って｡
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筍 だし醤油で炙って｡香りがまだ薄い｡鹿児島ではなさそう｡
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小肌｡ こんなに淡い締めは初めて｡ 鰊の独特な香りを感じる｡ 写真を拡大しても締めたようには見えない｡ 信じられないけれど〝生〟かも知れない｡自分の味覚を信じられなくなった一品
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佐島の蛸｡ツメでのサーブ｡ごま塩でつまみたい｡
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海老
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ズケ｡30分くらいヅケられていた｡こちらも出汁の強いヅケダレ
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中トロ
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アオリイカ 海苔と山葵を噛ませて柚子の搾り汁と塩で
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穴子 ふわふわの煮穴子｡
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鎌倉彫りの古美たお椀｡コレ欲しい｡
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魚のアラの味噌汁｡濃厚で塩味強め｡
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海苔巻｡ 干瓢のボリューム｡最後にご飯普通量の巻物｡
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玉子焼き｡しっとりとした舌触り。甘みしっかりのデザート的な〆の一品｡
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板場を囲んだ8席のみの客席｡自然と和やかな空気｡
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
概要〉
鎌倉 浄妙寺、報国寺、杉本寺がある、少し奥まった地域｡
通りから小径を少し入り茂った山野草に囲まれた一軒の〝草庵〟｡
L字のカウンター8席｡
ご主人の〝粋〟を囲む、早春の宵｡
訪問日時〉
週末 1730時 予約にて
献立〉
◯摘み
・盛合せ（空豆・つぶ貝・牡蠣酢・鮟肝・鮪の酒盗）
・ホタルイカの炙り
・初鰹
・焼き鰯（染めおろし）
◯握り
・伊佐木
・ほうぼう
・真鯛
・石鯛
・平目（ポン酢おろし）
・赤貝
・ヒモ
・青柳
・太刀魚
・筍
・小肌
・蛸（佐島）
・海老
・ヅケ鮪
・中トロ
・アオリイカ（絞り柚子、塩）
・穴子
・海苔巻
・玉子焼き
食味〉
〝旬〟〝はしり〟を織り交ぜ、〝炙り〟〝ヅケ〟〝締め〟〝煮〟〝焼き〟各々の素材の最良を引き出す技法で供される〝つまみ〟〝握り〟の数々｡
握り→
20貫を提供すべく、1貫は極めて小ぶりで繊細｡
小ぶりでも口の中でハラリと解ける素晴らしい加減は技術の高さの成せるもの｡
ご飯→
硬め
酢強め 塩弱め
シャリ玉は小さく7gから9g程度と思われる
各ネタ→
ご飯に合わせて小さいけれど、十二分に旨味を感じるバランス｡
素材の硬さや強さに応じて切付けが調整された、小さく繊細な握りが供される｡
煮切りには風味が付けられ、握り全体を一つの料理として、まとめ上げているかのよう｡
「小肌」が出色｡
「鰊」の香りが感じられる〝生〟かと思うほどの淡い締め｡
※個々は写真にて→〝小肌〟は特に！
雑感〉
〝鎌倉まで〟も〝鎌倉から〟も〝足を延ばす〟に足る十分な価値は間違いなく得られるはず｡
身を隠すようにひっそり佇む草庵｡
山野草の中に灯る行燈に「和さび」の屋号｡
格子戸の奥、寄り付きの向こう｡
硝子引戸の先には、古くはあるけれど手入れが行き届き、華美にならない落ち着いた座敷｡
その更に奥、板場を囲むカウンターは、さながら舞台装置｡
客席に案内され、待つ事しばし｡
３時間の愉悦の〝鮨時間〟が静かに幕を上げる｡