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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
『地元に愛されるコスパが凄いお鮨屋さん』をコンセプトに至高の20品を提供する東中野の鮨屋さん。創業300年の長い歴史を持つ福井・小浜「とば屋酢店」のシャリ酢、ブランド米「銀河のしずく」をシャリに使用。四季折々のネタを通じて日本中を旅できるのも魅力的だ。古き良き鮨へのこだわりはもちろん、”伝えないともったいない“という想いから『日本茶』と鮨の組み合わせを提案する前進的な一面もあるお店です。
◆場所
東中野駅から徒歩30秒
◆営業時間
※ランチ1部、ディナー2部制
［ランチ］
12:00〜
［ディナー］
1部 17:30〜/ 2部 20:00〜
日曜営業
◆定休日
月曜日
◆混雑状況
平日の夜に足を運びました。
完全予約制。
◆本日は【鮨くにみつコース】(¥15400)+【日本酒ペアリング】(¥5500)を注文。
店名でもある店主の国充さんのオリジナル、“静岡茶葉締め”の『白海老』からコースがスタート。一粒一粒が大きい岩手県産のブランド米「銀河のしずく」に想像よりもずっと柔らかい白海老が口の中をゆったりと満たす。茶葉の風味から和のテイストも感じられる一品。
続いて豆乳をベースにしたスープで新玉ねぎ、桜エビ、桜、アスパラの入った『桜桜』。桜エビと桜が入っているから“桜桜”なんだとか。蓋がしてあり、匂いからも訪れる春を感じられる。
日本酒ペアリングの一杯目は滋賀『杣(そま)の道』。滋賀の山奥で作られる地酒で東京で提供しているのはおそらくこのお店だけ。無農薬の山田錦を木槽天秤で搾った日本酒で甘さ・辛さのバランスが良くスーッと鼻腔まで抜けていく。リーデルのグラスで飲むことでよりふくよかに感じられた。
続いてて『淡路の真鯛』は湘南ゴールドを使用して5日間熟成、『佐島の石鯛』は茶葉の佃煮と一緒に1週間寝かせて。
個人的に印象に残ったのが『サーモン』。
鮭は白身魚で分類は淡水魚。故に海無し県、栃木県でも養殖される。”くにみつ“で使用しているのは特産魚『オリーブヤシオマス』。オリーブヤシオマスはオリーブオイルを添加した飼料を与え、水流が強いところで育てたマッチョなマスだ。”くにみつ”では3日間、昆布締めしたものを使用しており、脂の乗りが贅沢だった。
日本酒ペアリングの2酒目は『天賦 純米酒 初音』。炭酸のように微発泡でしゅわりとした飲み口。甘みもあり飲みやすい。
続いて『真ほっけと芽くわいの春巻き』。春巻きは食べやすいように２つに切られ、パリッとした皮にホクホクの真ほっけがたまらない。芽くわいはお節料理などで見られる野菜で高級なフライドポテトのような食感だった。
『ビシャトロ巻き』には鮪と茨城産のエシャロットを使用。林家のパリパリの海苔に、エシャロットの辛さをうまく形容したソースがお米の旨みをより増幅する。
続いて大阪産の『鰯』。鯵自体は洗う程度で提供しており、まるでニシンのように生の食感が際立つ。酢橘を絞ったお酢も柔らかい鯵にしっかりとマッチ。
日本酒ペアリングの3酒目は『森嶋 雄町 純米大吟醸 生原酒』。こちらの日本酒は手を添えて温度を上げることで温度の変化を楽しめる。瑞々しさのある香りが特徴。微発泡で透明感のあるクリアな口当たりの後、じっくりとした甘みを感じられる。
北海道苫小牧産の『ホッキ貝』は48℃で32分間の火入れをすることで臭みをとる。火入れをしているはずなのに舌触りは少し前まで生きていたかのような“生”を感じる食感。
鮨が運ばれてきたところで小休みに胡麻、白味噌をベースにした『ホタルイカの坦々なめろう』。なめろうの中には木の芽(山椒の葉)や炒り玄米が入っており、玄米の香ばしさとピリ辛な濃厚のバランスが良い。中毒性があり、ついつい口に運んでしまう。
ここで、すぐさっきまで生きていた『車海老』が茹でられて登場。一品目の白海老とは一変して海老の弾力ある肉質が納得感を与える。
インドマグロの漬けはワサビではなくカラシで。そして本日のハイライトが岩手県産『紫雲丹』。食べたお客さんが口々に「今まで食べた雲丹の中でも一番美味しい」と言うほどのこの雲丹は鮮度の高さはもちろん、癖がなく上品な口溶けだ。
続け様に『ノドグロ』は長崎県産の最上級ブランド”紅瞳“。行者にんにく味噌と一緒に口にすると、甘い脂がじんわりと至福で満たしていく。
日本酒ペアリングの4酒目は『宮泉銘醸 會津宮泉 貴醸酒』。“写楽(冩樂)“で有名な宮泉銘醸が作っている日本酒の中でも地元でのみ入手できる希少種。日本酒造りに欠かせない「もろみ」を仕込む際に、水の代わりにお酒を使用しているのでグレープフルーツのような濃厚な甘さが引き立つ。さらに甘みだけなく酸味やビターさも兼ね揃えたバランスも絶妙。江戸切子の酒器で。
ラストスパートに入り、岩手県大船渡産の『牡蠣』。自家製オイスターソースをつけて食べる大粒の牡蠣は、牡蠣とは思えぬほど滑らかで濃厚。
締めに入る前に。日本茶インストラクターとお仕事をしたきっけから“使わないともったいない伝えないともったいない”という思いが芽生えたそうで、日本茶AWARDプラチナ賞を受賞した緑茶を提供していただく。この緑茶は1kg 6万円という目が飛び出る価格。しかし、まるで茶の旨みが出汁のようにすら感じられる余韻を深くまで残した格別な緑茶だった。
鮨の最後は御殿場のわさびを使用した『お塩のかっぱ巻き』。まだ食べられるという人には『かんぴょう巻き』『茶葉の佃煮の巻き』も。
デザートは気楽に雑談しながら楽しめる、デザートブースへ席を移動して。
クリーミーで滑らかな生プリン、日向夏の2色寒天、そして北海道フロマージュブラン、パウンドケーキが乗った贅沢プレート。ふわりとした酸味のあるフロマージュブランがパウンドケーキと渾然一体となり口に広がる。
最後のほうじ茶まで、こだわり抜かれた贅沢な時間でした。